Bases of ice climbing: place screws, abalakov.

This video presents the techniques to place screws and how to do Abalakovs in ice.
Here we will discuss technical aspects, but do not forget that ice climbing is especially important to know the material on which you're progressing.
The quality of the ice, its structure, the upper slopes or the recent temperature variations are essential factors to consider before getting into an icefall.

But, what is Abakalov?

The Abalakov thread, or V-Thread, is an ice protection device named after its innovator, Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. The Abalakov thread is a common method of protecting oneself while ice climbing because it is easy to create, doesn't require the sacrifice of expensive gear, and can be very safe when used properly. An Abalakov thread is often used in multi-pitch ice climbing routes. Because of its safety and convenience, the Abalakov thread is considered one of the most significant innovations in ice climbing. It significantly expanded the scope of possible routes and abseiling safety.

An Abalakov thread can be constructed using an ice screw, 1–2 metres (3.3–6.6 ft) of appropriate strength cord, and hook-like Abalakov threading device. Two holes are drilled in the ice, which interconnect at the ends to form a v-like channel in the ice. The cord is then threaded through this hole, and tied with a knot such as a fisherman's knot. This loop is then used to hang the abseiling rope. Abalakov thread can only be constructed in solid ice. The holes need to be drilled at the correct angle (about 45-50 degrees compared to ice surface), and care must be taken that they interconnect. The surfaces of the holes need to have sufficient distance (about 17–20 centimetres (6.7–7.9 in)) between them. If the ice is not strong enough, it is possible to use two Abalakovs to balance the force, although if this is needed, an alternate route is strongly recommended.[1]

Though the Abalakov thread is considered to be as strong as any ice screw placement, a backup ice screw is frequently used for the first abseil. This allows for increased safety if mistakes were made in the creation of the Abalakov thread, and allows the strength of the thread to be observed.

Enjoy with this video.


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